Author: Helen

Shops Book: Introduction

This walk will take you on a tour of small shops, past and present, in the Hanover and North Laine areas of Brighton. The walk is based on first-hand stories from Shops Book first published by QueenSpark in 1978, and available to download as a PDF here.

The first half of the tour takes you over the hills of Hanover, and will last about 30 minutes. You will be rewarded with some fantastic westerly views across Brighton.  The second half is flatter and also takes about 30 minutes.  You may prefer to do one half of the walk, or do the whole thing in one go. Either way, you should get a flavour of how local shopping has altered over the years.

Shopping used to be a daily event, done at the corner store or in the many specialised shops. These days it tends to be done weekly at larger stores. The disappearance of street selling and the decline of street life in general is another major change.

It was generally considered that there were three types of trader:

THE PROFESSIONAL SHOPKEEPER was distinctly better off than the rest. He was usually an employer, and had learnt the skills of his trade as an apprentice and manager. He often belonged to trade professional associations.

THE SMALL SHOPKEEPER was less well off than the professional, had a lower status in the neighbourhood and depended solely upon his family to staff his shop.

STREET SELLERS included barrow boys, costermongers and street traders, who were itinerants, without capital, a fixed shop or regular customers. Their trade was risky but, at times, very lucrative.

Start the walk at the bottom of Elm Grove by St Joseph’s Catholic Church.

1. Stone’s Butchers Shop

 

In the early 1970’s Mr. Stone still lived above the butcher shop at 14 Elm Grove which his father purchased in 1912. It had originally belonged to Mrs. Stenning, who established the business in 1884. Mr. Stone recalls:

“I started here on December 23, 1938. Father and mother managed it before me – I worked for them. They came here on November 5, 1912.

I stayed here until I was 17 and then went away to London to have my experiences, and done three years slaughtering; I also went through the business of the butchery shop in two London shops. From there I went to Reading, then to Swindon, and, on the death of my father, I had to come back here.”

14 Elm Grove in 2019

Walk up the hill to the junction of Hampden Road.

2. Stanger’s Chemist

 

Mr. and Mrs. Stanger opened their own chemist shop in 1935 at 74 Elm Grove.

“We started with two shops, one in Elm Grove and one further up Elm Grove. Then we bought one at Woodingdean. I did all the buying at No. 74. The other shops sent orders to me each. Eventually we sold Woodingdean- it got too much. In our other shop we had one qualified man and an assistant. In the main store there was me and my wife, another qualified girl, an assistant cleaner; we had a boy with a hand cart for deliveries.”

“I did enjoy business. I was my own boss and had very good staff. Our ambition as chemists was to give service and oblige people. And we made a reasonable profit.

We got married and said we are not going to earn a lot of money and save it. What money we have will go on the children’s education.”

There is still a Pharmacy at no 74 run by Kamson’s and no 78, which was a greengrocer in 1924, is still a greengrocer now called Hilly Laine.

Hilly Laine, 78 Elm Grove in 2019

Elm Grove still contains a number of shops mostly on the right hand side as you go up the hill. In 1924 it contained 12 grocers/greengrocers; 2 bakers; 4 butchers; 3 confectioners; 1 fishmonger; 4 tobacconists, and 2 chemists.

At the chemist junction turn down Hampden Road and this will take you to the next street Islingwood Road. Turn right down the hill until you reach No 128.

3. Archers the Butchers

 

At no.128 Islingword Road, Archers the Butchers once stood.
The current shop is still called Archers and you will note the signage is very similar to how it might have been in the past.

Archers at 128 Islingword Road in 2019

“Father got to know people in the trade. He was a member of the Association (Brighton and Hove Meat Traders Association). He started at 6:30 and closed at 7:00. Buying was his department. He’d be down there at the meat market at 5:30 or so. I would cut up meat, make sausages, perhaps nipping the odd orders out. We did a mixed trade – you would do because we were reasonably near the front – the boarding house trade. We had a regular trade, 80 percent of the people you served were people you served each week.”

Turn round and start to walk up the hill, and you will walk past no.123 – this used to be a pork butcher back in 1924 and was still a butcher in 1983.

Carry on walking up the hill until you reach no 78.

 

 

4. O’Flinn’s Chemist

 

O’Flinn’s the chemist stood at 78 Islingword Road.

It is interesting to note that this still carries the same name as it did all the years ago when the Shops Book was first written.

“Mrs. O’Flinn qualified at the same time as Mrs. Stanger- both had professional status and were members of the Pharmaceutical Society. In both businesses, there was an element of security which was not evident in the beginnings of poorer general shop-keepers.”

O’Flinns in 2019

Islingword Road back in the 1920’s contained many different shops including: 3 confectioners; 3 bakers ;10 Greengrocers/grocers; 2 fishmongers; 2 chemists; 2 butchers; 3 beer retailers ( Public Houses); a physician, hairdresser; a Post Office and a pickle manufacturer. As you walk up and down you will see evidence of past shop fronts in among the current shops.

At the chemist cross over the road and start down the hill and turn left down Finsbury Road. You will then arrive at the next key location of Southover Street. Turn right down the hill past the Charles Napier Pub. Keep an eye open for evidence of businesses from the past. Back in the 1920’s the street contained 4 wardrobe dealers together with a range of other shops to serve the daily needs. Continue down till you reach the junction with Ewart Street and you will have reached the first location.

5. 38 Southover Street

 

The small shopkeeper was less well off than the professional, had a lower status in the neighbourhood and depended solely upon his family to staff his shop. These ventures were often very risky because they were based on small amounts of borrowed capital and little or no experience in trading. The relative ease of starting a shop of this kind encouraged many to try their hand at it, so that competition was often fierce. In Southover Street alone in 1875, there were 8 grocers, 5 bakers and 8 greengrocers. In 1890, there were 5 confectioners, two of which, Mrs. Payne’s and E. Keeping’s, were next door to one another at numbers 27 and 28! This degree of competition, and the poverty of many of the customers, meant that credit was a necessity. This added to the risk, especially as suppliers frequently demanded cash payments on delivery.

Continue down Southover Street turning left into Belgrave Street. Continue along until you reach the junction with Albion Hill. As you look across you will see Grove Hill, cross here and walk down until you reach Richmond Parade on your right. Turn down the hill and just into Richmond Parade. The flats on the right are on the site of what used to be the southern end of Richmond Buildings; this contained many homes and businesses in the early part of the 20th century.

 

6. Parr’s Grocery

 

Mr. Marshall, the chimney sweep of Islingword Road, remembers shops in Richmond Buildings, which have now been demolished. Amongst them was Mr. Parr’s grocery, which bears many of the marks of the higher class grocer, even though Richmond Buildings was at the centre of one of the poorest neighbourhoods in Brighton. Mr. Marshall recalls:

“Decent people lived there. There were some good shops down there. Several people made fortunes in Richmond Buildings. My family, and Parr’s the grocers, had a couple of lovely shops at 13 and 14. Bill Parr used to live at Southwick – came in every morning with rolled umbrella, bowler and brief case. He had staff – Miss Hawkins, Baker a crippled chap, Tommy Ming, and one of the Taylors and an errand boy. He started on his own. He sold to local people – a good trade. Gave credit till Friday; he had plenty of money, didn’t bother about a bad debt or two.

Mrs. Wheatley’s family experience was similar. It was her mother who possessed the commercial drive in the family: she operated a number of greengrocery businesses at different times in Brighton, Hove and Portslade before moving to Richmond Buildings in November, 1914. Mrs. Wheatley’s mother was typical of the many women proprietors who managed family shops at this time. The directories reveal that women proprietors were common- especially in laundries, greengroceries, confectioneries and various other dealerships.

You have now completed the hilly part of the walk.  To continue with the second half, cross over the Old Steine.  You will see the North Laine Brew House on the corner of Gloucester Street; walk along Gloudcester Street and take the first left Gloucester Road. As you walk up Gloucester Road you will see the entrance to Kensington Gardens on your left. As you walk down here you can note that the street still contains many independent businesses. It is also the place where Anita Roddick first opened the Body Shop in 1976 at No 22.